How to Grow Worsleya Seeds

Free download. Book file PDF easily for everyone and every device. You can download and read online How to Grow Worsleya Seeds file PDF Book only if you are registered here. And also you can download or read online all Book PDF file that related with How to Grow Worsleya Seeds book. Happy reading How to Grow Worsleya Seeds Bookeveryone. Download file Free Book PDF How to Grow Worsleya Seeds at Complete PDF Library. This Book have some digital formats such us :paperbook, ebook, kindle, epub, fb2 and another formats. Here is The CompletePDF Book Library. It's free to register here to get Book file PDF How to Grow Worsleya Seeds Pocket Guide.

It would interesting to see how the flowers would look like once these tissue culture Worsleya flowers in 5 to 6 years.. Growing the small Worsleya in a cell tray in Winter, I grow them over a heat pad keeps the roots warm with ambient temperature of 60F and up and expose them to full sunlight. Watering could be every days depending on how fast they dry out. So even in winter, they're growing. As it warms up in Early Spring, the heat pad is turned off and everything else remains the same.

For the commercial peat moss based potting mix or the Straight Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, I let it dry out barely before watering again.

Heavy its wet and light if its dry prior to watering once to twice a week in the Spring and I'd suspect every day or two in Summer depending on how fast they dry out.. Be aware that by using organic potting mix such as the commercial peat moss based or Straight Canadian Sphagnum moss, its efficacy diminish over a period of time as it breakdown. As it breaksdown, its water holding capacity also increases so if you're watering schedule is fix, you'll end up overwatering the plant, hence the need for repotting every year or two depending on the severity of the breakdown. Great thing about inert potting mix is they don't break down thereby can be reused if repotting is required once the plant has outgrown the pot.

Update : on the month Old October , I checked the root system between the ones potted in Sunshine 4 vs ones on Pure Canadian Sphagnum Moss and compare the pictures below: roots are much more numerous and longer on the Worsleyas grown in Canadian Sphagnum. Update on month old Worsleya Oct Worsleya grown in Sponge Rock Bulbs are plump and roots are clean and numerous when grown in Sponge Rock and much more forgiving when it comes to root rot.

Worsleya procera syn. Worsleya rayneri

The Worsleya procera 'DAP' clone even when young are already exhibiting the rooster tail characteristic of a much older seedlings and also prone to producing multi-growth in a single plant. Since the Sponge Rock is non-organic and inert, plant food or fertilizer has to be provided every watering. Also observed that the ones that has more roots grow faster than their counterpart with less roots. Small Worsleya grown in mini-greenhouse Growing the Worsleya in self-watering planter with the appropriate potting mix would allow the plant to thrive.

The outer pot is the reservoir and the color coordinated inner pot or liner has the level gauge , wick, and also comes with its own proprietary inert potting mix called PON consisting of pumice, lava rock, zeolite and built-in fertilizer good for a year. Or if need the challenge, just separate the liner from outer pot and treat the liner as a conventional pot and use the other pot with no holes to grow aquatic plants.

I'll take another picture of the 8-month old Worsleya when it turns a year old in September and see how big it gets and its root system as grown in the Apricot Colored Mini-Deltini.

Notes on Bulbs from Jim Shields

The PON Non-organic potting mix also comes with it and as the name suggests, the planter is in a shape of a cube. Other than the difference in the shape, the inner pot or liner is transparent so you could see what's going on inside the inner pot. I'll take another picture of the 8-month old Worsleya when it turns a year old in September and see how big it gets and its root system as grown in the White Mini-Cubi.

I don't even recall watering it as the rain and the self-watering feature took care of the watering for me. Also exposed to full sun till 2pm outside from Late Spring, Summer till just before the first frost before I bring it in and watering once or twice or three times a week depending on weather condition. Notice also that it has fewer leaves compared to the one in the self-watering planters.

Picture was taken in Winter. As its hand watered, it must have been consistently underwatered and if its overwatered, the consequences is loss of roots which is devastating as it takes a couple of years to regain the roots. For optimum and consistent watering, plant the Worsleya in a Self-Watering Planter sized properly with the appropriate potting mix.

  • The Revd. [Reverend] John Stuart, D.D., U.E.L., of Kingston, U.C. and his family; a genealogical study,?
  • Scraps of Faith: 54 Poems of Lucius Furius;
  • Worsleya procerea blooming size Blue Amaryllis of Brazil.
  • Serial Comic.
  • Gondarlan (The Lay of Angor Book 1).

The same could be said for the larger Worsleya plants both in a 9" regular pot and 8"x8"x10" Cubico 22 Liner Self-watering Planter. Both plants are approxiately the same size, healthy with lots of roots just by observing the regular pot hanging when the plant is lifted but the one in the self-watering has a larger bulb, more leaves and more offsets.

Plant Collector: Worsleya procera | Tikorangi The Jury Garden

A larger Worsleya plant in a Cubico 22 Self-watering Planter. Notice the peacock shape leaves and number of leaves and also the offsets. When buying a Worsleya plant, don't just look at the size of the bulb, number of leaves but also how well rooted it is. And the test is have them hold the plant up in the air and see if the pot also is being held by the plant or check out the root system. Basically, it was regarding s. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

Maybe I need to transplant it. The pot I have has no drainage holes, but it's deep , I don't water it that often, and there are rocks at the bottom for drainage. Also, I have it in my window which probably receives 4 to 6 hours of sunlight, or less. I've just been afraid to put it outside because the first Worsleya I got, which had no leaves or anything, now has two leaves coming up and some little roots.

They are in the same position. The large one is in lava rocks, orchid mix, pearlite, and a touch of garden soil. Anyone have any suggestions? By the way, the one that wasn't looking so good died. I think I may have gotten a bad plant on that one though. HI Rick, Just saw this as I sit here wasting time.

The e-mail addy on here is defunct and the only one I have is my work addy which I'm not willing to give out here.

How to sprout amaryllis (hippeastrum) seed by floating

I've never gotten any seed from my Scilla so never have any extras of that plant. Stones at the bottom just create a water table so if you have roots that are reaching down that far they are sitting in water and likely rotting. When I first got some plants without roots I put them in pure pumice didn't have volcanic cinder back then on a heat mat to keep plenty of heat to the base of the plant until they had nice new roots. By the way, these plants can take a HUGE amount of sun so if you can get it under some lights, give it some heat and get it in a pot that drains.

I sincerely hope you have not lost your beauty. Best of luck, Dan. OK, so what I'm thinking now is that these plants should not have any wet soil. They should be watered, but no water should be left in the pot, which means there shouldn't be any kind of soil that holds water. Am I correct? One thing that bothers me is that I have a space out front where it can get a lot of light, but I just don't want it to freeze. How low a temperature can these withstand? Right now in Los Angeles, the lows go to the 50's, but just a few weeks ago, it was getting to the 50's high and high 30's low.

I think that it at the moment, it may be getting to the high 40's overnight though. Rob-- the best I can tell you is to go back and read what I wrote earlier on this thread, and what others wrote. You're using a plastic or glazed pot with little drainage, which sounds like a death sentence for worsleya. It's stagnant and sour. Think of the plants in their natural habitat. They have excellent drainage, and a lot of exposure. Your pot setup with perlite, potting soil and very low water or air circulation to the roots will eventually kill that plant.

You spent a lot of money on nice plants. Ditch the perlite and potting soil. After repotting your plants, you'll need to coddle them a little, which means: flood the pot in the morning using fresh water at room temp, then let them spend the rest of the day in a few hours of sun until they are almost bone dry.

Do not let them stand in water. It's much better to skip a day or two of watering, in stead of over watering. I'm not the maven of worsleya culture Dan is!!

Bulb Alert for 20 July 2006

I don't put mine outside at all. They just sit in a south-facing window. Dan--I guess I'll buy seeds and grow my own. It's not good to have only one narrow genetic line for s species being mass-produced by commercial labs None are in plastic. There in glazed clay pots. I'm drilling a hole in one right now. I'm hoping that terra-cotta pots aren't the only solution because they look awful. They start out ok, but eventually start coming apart. I have several that I'm using and I regret buying each one. I will buy one if that's what everyone else thinks though.

Talk about an eyesore. Now, pumice I can get at amazon. Are you sure that pure perlite won't work just as well? Terracotta pots start peeling and getting red dust everywhere, and they alway, no matter what you do, get this white stuff all around them. I had that problem with some terracotta pots too.